There’s no question that even the most experienced gardener can become easily confused this time of year when they go out to harvest their winter squash and pumpkins. The genetic history of the pumpkin is so intertwined with the squash and the gourd that it’s sometimes difficult to tell them apart. Exactly what is a squash and what is a pumpkin?
Perhaps the easiest answer to that question can be attributed to a University of Illinois professor who said a pumpkin is something you carve, a squash is something you cook and a gourd is something you look at. Although it’s not quite that simple, it’s also not that difficult. The answer is in the stem.
Pumpkins, squash and gourds all belong to the same genetic group (Genus), Cucurbita. Within that family are several subgroups (species): Cucurbita pepo, Cucurbita maxima and Cucurbita moschata.
The pepo species is usually recognized as the true pumpkin. Varieties within this group have a bright orange skin and hard, woody, distinctly furrowed stems like ‘Connecticut Field’, ‘Jack-O’Lantern’, and ‘Small Sugar’ for example, But the group also includes gourds, vegetable marrow, pattypan summer squash, gray and black zucchini, and summer crookneck squash.
The maxima species also contains varieties that produce pumpkin-like fruit, but the skin is usually more yellow than orange and the stems are soft and spongy, or corky, without ridges and without an enlargement next to the fruit. They don’t really make good handles for jack-o’lanterns. ‘Atlantic Giant’, ‘Big Max’, and ‘Show King’ are often listed as pumpkins, but are more properly called pumpkin squash or squash-type pumpkins. In any case, they may not be accepted as entries in a largest pumpkin contest by a county fair board since they aren’t true pumpkins. Other members of the maxima subgroup are Hubbard squashes, banana squashes, buttercup squashes, and turban squashes; in short, most autumn and winter squash are maximas.
Finally, there’s the moschata species. Varieties in this group are usually long and oblong, instead of round, and have tan rather than orange skin. The stems are deeply ridged and enlarged next to the fruit. Ironically, a member of this group is used for much of the canned pumpkin sold in this country. Other non-pumpkin members include the squash-like cushaw, butternut, and winter crookneck.
Hints for Harvesting and Storing Squash
Although these two plants can tolerate a light frost that kills the vines, a hard freeze with temperatures of less than 27° F can do severe damage. While the majority of pumpkins never make it past Halloween, most gardeners strive to store squash into the winter months. Storing squash for an extended period is not that difficult, provided you pick them at the right time and store them properly.
Pick the squash from the vine when it is mature, leaving about one inch of the stem intact. Winter varieties such as Table Queen, Hubbard, and Turbans develop a hard shell. Marblehead and Golden Delicious, whose skins remain tender, are exceptions. The fact that the shell of winter varieties that are allowed to become mature cannot be penetrated with the thumbnail is not necessarily assurance that the squash is ripe, although it is an indication that maturity is being approached. The gardener must also observe the outer appearance. As the squash ripens, it develops a glossy, somewhat sparkling color with some yellow in the ground color (the part which touches the soil). In gray and green varieties, the yellow softens the early green or gray to a milder shade in comparison with the early fresh green appearance.
The seed fibers of a mature squash are stringy. The seeds should stand out by themselves, no longer encased in tissue, like peanuts in a piece of peanut brittle.
Remember to cut, rather than break off the stems of Hubbards and other fleshy stemmed squash, leaving about two inches of stem. Cure squashes and pumpkins after harvesting by placing them in a warm, dry area for about a week (skins will harden and wounds will heal). Store them in an area where temperatures do not drop below 50° F, with humidity ranging between 70 and 80 percent. Good air circulation will help to extend the storage life. Avoid storing them in plastic bags. An attic or high garage shelf, if kept above 50° F, would be ideal. Winter squash should be used immediately when taken out of storage to avoid development of fruit rot diseases. You can expect to store acorn squash for five to eight weeks, butternut squash for two to three months, and Hubbards for up to six months.
